THE LAST TIME I SAW Cleveland, her park was worn and gray. The press box in Cleveland Stadium was shrouded in cobwebs. The Indians on the field that season--1985--were on their way to losing 102 games. A solitary fanatic in the last row of the distant bleachers was banging a drum slowly to wake up either the offense or the ghosts of the past. George Vukovich stood where Rocky Colavito once stood. The 5,000 people rattling around the 74,208-seat Temple of Doom looked as if they wanted to wipe the stupid grin off the face of Chief Wahoo, the mascot whose...
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