For foodies, Florida was never a big stop on the U.S. eating circuit. Tourists ate fish, most often frozen. Frozen crab cakes. Frozen fried shrimp. Frozen Dover sole. For authenticity, there were boiled stone crabs, alligator for the hardy and lots of Key lime pie. In Guide Michelin terms, not worth a detour.
Nowadays, however, food lovers from all over are unfolding napkins in southern Florida. Instead of baby carrots and sun-dried tomatoes, try a red- snapper burger seasoned with cilantro, dill and hot-hot Scotch bonnet peppers. Or sauteed pompano dusted with crushed pistachios, served with a light fricassee of lobster,...