Food: Dining North by Northwest

Amid extraordinary bounty, Seattle chefs come of age

Had your fill of creole gumbo and Cajun blackened redfish? Fed up with Southwestern blue cornmeal tortillas, Tex-Mex refried beans and California's baby vegetables and grill-scarred swordfish? Then consider traveling north by northwest to Seattle, where yet another new American regional cuisine is bubbling along. Having simmered slowly over the past eight or nine years, this vibrant, young-spirited cooking is now beginning to achieve finish and form. Whether dubbed Northwestern (because of its almost religious dedication to local products) or Pacific Rim (because it draws inspiration from both Asian and West Coast shore communities), this cuisine is well sauced with pride...

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