There was chokingly sweet carrot butter, which the manufacturer claimed makes men think "they have died and gone to heaven." Also sour-sweet and metallic- tasting salad dressings "designed" by Gloria Vanderbilt and fool-the-eye chocolate Buffalo chicken wings packed with a container of blue-cheese dip. Something called Cowboy Caviar, made in California, was based on an old recipe for a Russian eggplant appetizer; and Le Brut d'Escargot, from France, proved to be ghostly, ghastly white snail's eggs that tasted like salty paregoric.
These were only a few of the specialties on the bizarre menu introduced to buyers for gourmet grocery stores at...