Surimi is a) slices of raw fish, b) George Bush's designated chief of staff, c) a tidal wave, d) a new compact car, e) a form of self-defense. The correct answer: none of the above. Few people recognize the name or know the product when they see it, but surimi is one of the hottest foods in the U.S. today. And though it sounds like an exotic delicacy, surimi is in fact the most pedestrian of edibles: a processed fish paste that serves, with a bit of doctoring, as an all-purpose seafood. Surimi now masquerades -- often illegally -- as crab,...
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