Volumes for cooks without time to shop and chop
If music be the food of love, cookbooks are the love of food. At their frequent best, the cook's companions are a fine if rarefied form of literature.
The harmonious balancing of a menu is perhaps more important to Italian cuisine than to any other this side of China. This can be a twice-a-day exercise, since most Italians still favor the three-course midday repast. Italian Cooking in the Grand Tradition (Dial; $24.95), by Jo Bettoja and Anna Maria Cornetto, addresses itself primarily to seasonal family...
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