What is a potato chip? For more than a century after an American Indian chef named George Crum first deep-fried leaf-thin slices of raw potato in his hotel kitchen in Saratoga Springs, N.Y., the answer seemed obvious. Recently, however, the definition of a chip has become controversial. Reason: products like Pringle's Newfangled Potato Chips, made by Procter & Gamble Co. out of a dehydrated mash of cooked potatoes and marketed in tennis-ball-like cans. Newfangled chips have a long shelf life and can be shipped over long distances without breaking. Put into national distribution this year, Pringle's has gobbled up perhaps...
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