The French abstain when they can from their ill-tasting tap water in favor of vin ordinaire, and abhor the ice water that Americans call for. Such Gallic hydrophobia does not apply, however, to bottled mineral water. In the course of a year, the French drink 1.2 billion bottles drawn from 3,000 springs, or 25 bottles for every man, woman and child. By far France's biggest producer of mineral water is Source Perrier, a $79 million firm that has grown so prosperous from its natural springs that it now owns seven mineral water...
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