The news that filters out of Fidel Castro's Cuban dictatorship is told two ways. The stream of disillusioned refugees who make their way to haven in Florida describe the police-state control, the hardships, the hunger, the flight. A second version is the face Castro shows the few U.S. visitors allowed inside Cuba. Last week TIME'S Caribbean Correspondent Sam Halper flew out of Cuba after a guided two-week tour. His report:
The traveler to Cuba may be prepared to find it in Communist hands, but is surprised by the astonishing speed and thoroughness of the takeover. Barely an hour out of...