In the university town of Leiden, The Netherlands, 350 years ago this week, a prosperous miller and his wife celebrated the birth of a son destined to tower over the painters of the northern Renaissance as Leonardo da Vinci towered over the masters of the Italian Renaissance. To mark the anniversary, Amsterdam's Rijksmuseum (State Museum) is staging an exhibition of 100 of the greatest paintings and 123 etchings by Rembrandt Harmensz van Rijn, chosen from 63 collections, including Leningrad's world-famous Hermitage (see color pages). At the same time, Rotterdam's Boymans Museum is...
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