SCANDALS: Vintage Villains

The Dutch connection is cut

Wine scandals are like bad vintages. They don't happen every year, but often enough to offend good taste. In 1974 the Bordeaux region was rocked by the news that the respected firm of Cruse et Fils Freres had sold cheap Midi reds under more expensive Bordeaux labels. In 1979 Burgundy Shipper Bernard-Noël Grivelet was accused of peddling an inferior blend under the finest names of the Cote d'Or. Now comes a 1980 scandal that may dwarf them both.

The suspect wine again is French, or is purported to be. But the principal culprits are Dutchmen who,...

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