Books: An International Bill of Fare

Traditional and new recipes travel from arroz to zuppa

A great cookbook can compete with any adventure novel. It will have glamorous, expensive leading characters like Mam'selle Canard and Signor Vitello, and a savory supporting cast. There will be cuttings and slicings, pairings and peelings, as in any other thriller, and the unpredictable can always be expected. Like a good novel, a well-done cookbook is also a sociological document, recording the infinite ways in which people all over the world nourish, titillate and please, borrowing from one culture, lending to another. Even before the...

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