Business: Ratings from the Gourmets

Granted. McDonald's cuisine is immensely popular, but how does it taste to a demanding critic of restaurants? TIME asked several of the nation's best-known food writers to sample the fare and render a judgment, bearing in mind that they were rating a fast-food operation rather than an aspirant to Guide Michelin accolades. The gourmets, few of whom had ever eaten at McDonald's before, were rather more impressed than might have been expected, though most found something to criticize. Their comments:

Craig Claiborne, publisher of a private food newsletter and former New York Times food critic: "The hamburgers are quite swallowable. There is...

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