Emile Zola described Les Halles as "the belly of Paris," and nobody ever coined a better phrase for the sprawling wholesale market on the Right Bank where for 800 years have flowed the meat, fowl, vegetables, dairy products, herbs, roots, fish, cheese and even flowers necessary to sustain a city of gourmets. Sadly, Paris inevitably outgrew its inefficient and costly belly; two years ago, most operations were moved to a shiny new complex at Rungis near Orly Airport. That move left the problem of what to do with a dozen huge cast-iron-and-glass...
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