Spirits: The Next White Hope

For people who are interested in American drinking habits—and enjoy arguments about statistics—the latest edition of the liquor industry’s Handbook brought some more or less momentous information. The bourbons still reign over all (two to one over Scotch), but vodka, the biggest new “white liquor,” passed gin last year, 12.9 million to 12.4 million cases. The Handbook’s charts show that vodka hasn’t a chance until 1973, if then. Then there’s rum. Terrific growth—up 54% in the past five years.

Since rum, vodka and gin are all so big, maybe there’s a new “white hope” coming along? Some liquor companies think they may have spotted one. It is tequila, the distinctive Mexican cactus liquor that mingles lazily—but with a powerful wallop—with all kinds of ingredients. Imports are up 388% in the past five years, and nearly every major distiller has now made an agreement with a Mexican producer.

Only a hardy aficionado still downs tequila the traditional way—with a preliminary pinch of salt and a slice of lime. For thirsty Americans, however, the Mexican ritual is too time-consuming and ritualistic: the drinker sucks the lime, licks the salt from the back of his thumb, and only then tosses back the tequila. Número uno for the American tequila fans is the Margarita, a cocktail made with lime juice, Cointreau or Triple Sec and tequila, all poured over shaved ice and served in a frosty glass rimmed with salt. To push tequila into the really big time, the drink’s backers have thought up more than 40 different recipes, including a Gringolet (with lime juice) and Brave Bull (with Kahlua). Next stop: dry and bottled tequila mixes. Salud.