The beer that may some day make Milan famous is quite unlike the usual watery Italian brew. On the autostrada running west out of Milan, the first German brewery to be built in Italy is now under construction. When it goes into production next spring, the Prinzen Brau brewery will produce 1,350,000 gallons of heady, German-style beer a year. The man behind Prinzen Bräu: West Germany's Rudolph-August Oetker, 46, a publicity-shunning tycoon who has built an inherited baking powder business into a 100-company complex with interests ranging from shipping to insurance.
After centuries of tippling almost exclusively on...