Biggest international art fair in the world is the 61-year-old Venice Biennale, held on the quarter-mile stretch of pavilions that was once Venice's marine arsenal. This year the show is bigger than ever before−more than 5,000 works of art from 34 nations−but critics last week were grumbling that the "Biennale is going downhill." Wrote Italian Critic Leonardo Borgese: "The show leaves. . . a sense of emptiness and bitterness, a sense of humiliation; one feels all are guilty, and does not know precisely why." Replied an Italian museum director: "Whenever the critics are...
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