Europe's liveliest public show these days is broad, tree-shaded Via Veneto, which runs from Rome's Piazza Barberini to the ancient Roman Gate of Pinciana. Its wide sidewalks are speckled with bright umbrellas and gay, colored tables. Its curbs are flanked by fashionable hotels and shops. Rome's American colony calls it "The Beach." An exhausted tourist, slumping into one of the comfortable chairs in mid-afternoon when proper Romans are enjoying a siesta, sees nothing but empty tables or exhausted fellow tourists. But just before lunch, in the late afternoon, or from 10 at night until early morning, the Via Veneto becomes...
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