In Moscow the winter snow had vanished. Street vendors were selling daffodils at 3 rubles each. Gourmets could buy tiny hothouse cucumbers, small succulent leaves of early lettuce, tiny radishes and tomatoes. Women discarded fur hats and thick wool shawls for bright head scarves. The sun came out. The Russian Pashka (Easter, a week later on the Julian calendar) had arrived in Moscow.
On Easter Eve, Russians of all ages, types and uniforms milled about with the candles they would light at midnight. The greatest excitement centered around Epiphany Cathedral, where the Patriarch...