Almost the only men playing old-style jazz outside New Orleans today are the aging old masters who came from there. In Los Angeles, jazz purists flock to hear the great tailgate trombonist, 56-year-old Edward ("Kid") Ory. New Yorkers until recently could seek out 66-year-old Trumpeter Willie ("Bunk") Johnson, playing in a Lower East Side ballroom.
In San Francisco, the fans gather in the dark Dawn Club, in an Annie Street cellar, to hear the unmuted two-beat Dixieland rhythms of a band that is neither Negro nor old. The eight musicians of Lu Watters' Yerba...
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