North and west of Pocatello, Idaho, U. S. highway 30 N enters the Snake River Valley, a wild region of fantastic rock formations, ghost towns, ice caverns, dinosaur fields, waterfalls, hot springs, reclamation projects, historic legends, lava beds. In some places, because of the underground rivers, "a person can put his ear to the ground and hear deep and troubled rumblings as if a mighty ocean rolled far under." Thirty-eight miles from Pocatello a three-mile side road leads to Emigrant Rock, where travelers wrote their names in axle grease as early as 1849....
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