"Rome has politics, ruins and the Pope," sniffed a Milanese last week, "but Milan is the real capital of Italythe financial, commercial, industrial, musical, artistic, theatrical, publishing, jazz and striptease capital. What more do you want?"
To U.S. tourists, Milan seems the most American of Italian cities. With skyscrapers by the score, supermarkets, corner gas stations, public swimming pools, installment buying, and a completely un-Latin pace and bustle, Milan has more the flavor of Cleveland or Baltimore than of Florence or Naples. And that is the way the 1,500,000 citizens of Milan...