MOROCCO: Man of Balances

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As the last flat light tipped the orange trees and spacious rose gardens, a car swung off the main road from Rabat and up the long drive to the big, Norman-style royal villa. His Majesty Sidi Mohammed ben Youssef, Sultan of Morocco, stepped out just as two cannon shots sounded through the still twilight air, signaling sunset and the end of Ramadan's day-long fast.

For the world's 400 million Moslems, Ramadan is the crudest month. From the moment in the predawn light when a white thread can be distinguished from a black,...

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