On a shaky wooden table outside his shop on Seoul's crowded South Gate Road last week, a gold-toothed leather craftsman tacked a crudely lettered sign: "Be-cus no more fight, no more gun holster but al kine camera bag." Throughout war-torn South Korea, from the open-sewered streets of Pusan to the rice-rich fields just below the front lines, there were similar signs of economic stirrings.
"Seoul's crater-pocked streets," reported TIME Correspondent James Greenfield last week, "are filled with civilian cars and taxis again. Where they suddenly came from, nobody seems to know. Every...