Andalusian Hideaway

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You don't go to Trasierra, you escape to it: from the dead heat of Seville in summer, from the crush of tourists in cooler months — or, for regular visitor Kate Moss, from the unwelcome intrusions of the paparazzi. The hotel, converted from a 16th century Andalusian manor, is a cosy redoubt defended by 3,000 acres of olive and orange groves in the Sierra Morena, an hour's drive northeast of the city. It keeps the outside world deliberately at bay: there are no phones in the 12 bedrooms, and no TV sets.

Upon arriving, the visitor...

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