"Waiter, is this Scone Organic?"

No place is safe from the modern obsession with all things natural and New Age. Not even the medieval English town of Totnes. Nestled in the lush pastures and wheatfields near Dartmoor in southern Devon, Totnes for decades made a quiet living from cream teas, antiques and postcards. But these days, it's a magnet for urban refugees running the kinds of bohemian businesses normally associated with trendy metropolitan neighborhoods.

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Twenty years ago, Totnes' idea of radical was reduced-fat cream. Now, a stroll through its Tudor-period East Gate reveals the new, hipper breed of vendor ensconced in the...