Coimbra

The Euro 2004 tournament will be played in eight great Portuguese cities. Here's a guide to some of their delights:

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After you have gone through the Arco de Almedina, the 9th century Moorish gateway that is part of the remains of Coimbra's medieval wall and climbed the Quebra Costas (Back-Breaker) steps to the ancient university and cathedral, go back down to the square by the River Mondego and grab a taxi across the bridge to the Quinta das Lgrimas (House of Tears) in Santa Clara. The hotel was built on the site of Portugal's most tragic love affair. In...