The stern face of president Daniel arap Moi has stared out at Kenyans for more than 24 years. Framed on office and shop walls, pictured on every banknote and coin and ubiquitous on the nightly news, the steely gaze hints at his rule: paternal, omnipotent and tough. Don't question the chief, the stare seems to say, because I'm everywhere.
But Moi, 78, is constitutionally obliged to step down at the upcoming presidential and parliamentary election on Dec. 27, and his country is more than ready for the change. In the past few years of economic decline and rampant...