Short Cuts

BOOKS ON TAP Don’t be fooled by the pretentious nameL’estranger Literary Salon is Luang Prabang’s coolest bar, perched on the second floor of a gorgeous teakwood shophouse overlooking the Nam Khan river in Thanon Kingkitsalat. Paper lanterns cast a gentle glow over cushions scattered invitingly about the polished wooden floor, as a mix of funk and trip-hoppy sounds filter from the speakers. Marvel at the collection of old National Geographics lining the upstairs walls or browse in the secondhand bookshop downstairs.

CULTURAL ALCHEMY As a younger man, Thithpheng Maniphone was silversmith to Laos’ royalty. These days, the 72-year-old master artisan is happy to let anybody buy his wares or watch him work. Banging hammers, hissing flames and puffing bellows greet visitors to his studio, as Thithpheng and his apprentices turn lumps of silver into intricately patterned bowls, goblets, knives, ceremonial swords and jewelry. “My work symbolizes life and Lao culture,” says Thithpheng. You can find him in Luang Prabang’s silversmith precinct, off Thanon Chao Fa Ngum.

PAPER CHASE It’s almost impossible to leave Baan Khily empty-handed. This small shop on Thanon Sakkalin, tel: (856-71) 212-611, has resurrected the ancient Lao art of making saa paperthick, textured cardlike sheets made from mulberry bark. Light shades and lamps in breathtakingly beautiful colors are the best-selling items, but there are also greeting cards and wall hangings on offer. Or take a 15-minute tuk tuk ride to Ban Sangkong, on the town’s outskirts, where you can watch the paper being made.