
Christopher Kostow
Though the sleepy town of St. Helena, Calif., is in the heart of wine country, its chief role in Northern California's booming tourism industry is that of a drive-through. It is among several towns that one can unwittingly pass while driving around the region--unlike such destinations as Sonoma, 24 miles southwest, or Napa, 9 miles south. Which makes it all the more remarkable that an establishment in St. Helena--the Restaurant at Meadowood, helmed by chef Christopher Kostow--is one of just two restaurants in the western U.S. to hold three Michelin stars. (The other is the French Laundry, Thomas Keller's nearby bastion...