Martin Picard is not averse to pairing maple syrup with pancakes, though it depends on how you define a pancake. Case in point: the French-Canadian chef's Vinily sandwich, from his new cookbook Au Pied de Cochon Sugar Shack. Two thick flapjacks, fried in duck fat, act as doughy paperweights. Shreds of stout- and syrup-roasted pork belly, a maple-cream-cucumber-herb dressing and a layer of raw-milk goat cheese sit between them. The portly little pile is doused in syrup and staked with a Popsicle stick. In a footnote, the cook suggests tossing in two slices of salted foie gras: "If you're in the...
Sugar Rush
A Qubcois chef heads to the forest to sweeten haute cuisine
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