When the dishes arrive, it's clear that Café des Spores is unlike any other eatery in St.-Gilles the boho Brussels neighborhood that already boasts plenty of distinctive places to dine. From the shiitake farci , to Sparassis-crépus -and-Comté-cheese gratin, to cèpe-and-foie-gras crème brûlée, mushrooms are the star. Philippe Emanuelli, a sommelier by training, co-founded this curious concept bistro in 2004. Emboldened by his success, today he has handed the reins over to Jamie Oliver trained chef Nicolas Scheidt and is working to spread his passion for fungi to a wider public.
It's...