An Englishman in the Land Of Smiles

Photograph for TIME by Paula Bronstein / Getty Images

Ball breaker: Thailand soccer coach Peter Reid takes the practice field in Bangkok

"Thais believe that a person's soul abides in the crown of the hair on top of the head. To bump, hit, rub, or touch the head is to offend the soul, perhaps causing it to run away from home." — Handbook for foreign students at a Thai university

Peter Reid is doing that thing with his mouth again. First, the skin around his sky-blue eyes starts to wrinkle. Then the corners of his thin lips slowly curl up toward thick sideburns. Then you catch a glimpse of dentistry and it's unmistakable....

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