Walking through downtown Reykjavík on a November night is a little like being trapped in a snow globe that's packed away in the world's attic. The gray sky hangs low, dusting the houses in white soundproofing. The narrow streets, glazed by the orange glow of streetlamps, are invariably empty. In the 2000 film 101 Reykjavík , the film's narrator puts it this way: "Reykjavík is like some kind of Siberia in the winter. Even the ghosts are bored here."
It's also the best time of year to drop by. Not only is winter...
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