Spanish Treasure Grove

It is "characterized by the intensity of its fruitiness and the balance of its attributes ... with a degree of astringency." A white from Alsace, perhaps, or a red from Burgundy? No, much heavier. These tasting notes are for the liquid that transforms a lettuce or a tomato — or a hunk of fresh bread — into tastebud bliss: extra virgin olive oil. A fluid that would be irresistible even if it were bad for us but which, as medical researchers confirm, has the salutary side-effect of acting as a barrier to conditions from cholesterol to cancers.

These particular...