Nothing Plain in Spain

Located in a 170-year-old club, the sort of place where a butler might be on standby to hold a drink for a member as he takes a shot in the billiards room, the restaurant La Terraza del Casino in central Madrid reeked of stuffy formality. So it seemed like a daring choice to put the eclectic Spanish artist Jaime Hayon, known for reimagining Lladró's porcelain collectibles, in charge of the redesign. But chef Paco Roncero, who worked at the famed El Bulli, was a fan and wanted Hayon to match the restaurant's décor with the creativity of his dishes, like razor...

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