It is rush hour in São Paulo, and I am riding pillion through the frenetic streets of downtown. Up ahead are two motorbike medics on their way to an emergency call. From the way they handle their bikes I can tell they are used to weaving through the nose-to-tail traffic. I, on the other hand, feel as if I am in a deadly video game. This is São Paulo, the biggest metropolis in South America and one of the most chaotic cities on earth. Everywhere we turn, obstacles rush at us. As we approach the city's cathedral, striking postal workers spill...
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