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One Man's Meat
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Victor Arguinzoniz is the best grill man ever. His restaurant,
Etxebarri
, is in a Basque farmhouse about 40 minutes and a world away from Bilbao, in Axpe, a postcard village set among skyscraping peaks, and impossible to find on a map. Trust me, it's worth the trouble. Arguinzoniz makes his own charcoal from local hardwoods. He has also invented a custom grill with a pulley system that allows precise control of oxygen intake, levered grill surfaces that can be kept meticulously clean for a light smoke, and a mesh-bottomed pan that grills such refined foods as caviar and the tiniest...