Deep in our brains, somewhere near the part that says it's time to eat, there's a little plate of leftovers. Whether it's Mom's apple pie or that first oyster, food memories can propel even the most indifferent of eaters back, back into the night kitchen of nostalgia.
Much as Proust had his remembrances of madeleines past, a banquet hall full of chefs, cookbook writers and restaurant critics have been turning their personal epiphanies of gustatory glory into a thriving literary genre: the food memoir. In the past year alone, a baker's half a dozen have hit the...
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