Global Life: A New Food Mecca

Spain, with its inventive restaurants and celebrated chefs, is attracting culinary pilgrims

Drive into almost any town in Spain, and you'll see road signs pointing to restaurants and hotels. But if you arrive in Sant Celoni, just north of Barcelona, seeking one of the finest restaurants in the country, you'll be out of luck. The place is tucked away on a narrow street off the main square; most of the townsfolk are familiar with it but may be scant help if your Spanish is so lame that you confuse the words nombre and nĂșmero.

The obscurity of Can Fabes seems odd since the restaurant is one of only four in Spain to have earned...

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