The signature dish of the Los Angeles restaurant A.O.C. is a small plate of English peas cooked with their own tendrils and a touch of green garlic. Cost: $8. Suzanne Goin, chef of the 8-month-old eatery, also offers bite-size portions of chicken with sorrel, black rice with squid and curried cauliflower. The dishes are all highly flavored and served up quickly. There are no entree-size portions. "I was afraid people wouldn't think of this as a place to have dinner," says Goin of her diminutive-dining concept. "But they went for it very quickly. I was surprised." Within weeks A.O.C. became one...
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