Many are the wonders of modern tourism--economical packages, efficient tours, reliably standardized accommodations, every detail adjusted to make the traveler feel at home while abroad. The drawback, of course, is that it's so bland and formulaic (museum, monument, gift shop, beverage! Repeat!). Hence there are vagabond travelers who remain determined to avoid all that--to seek out destinations that offer interest and beauty but don't seem geared for the masses. While living in Scotland a few years ago, I was one of those. I wanted to travel to the farthest reaches of Great Britain, far away from Stonehenge and Loch Ness. I...
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