When allied troops were in Genoa after World War II, MPs painted the words OFF LIMITS on some of the streets downtown in an effort to keep soldiers away from the city's petty thieves and prostitutes. Not much has changed since: some of the tiny alleys in the old part of this medieval port city, while picturesque, are best avoided. If you know where to go, you can still enjoy memorable shops and museums in Genoa--even if you're one of the thousands of business and government executives who will be joining President Bush and other heads of the world's major industrial...
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