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In fact, I left Jerusalem feeling more Christian than I ever had. I came to understand why members of minorities need to embrace their commonality. Once, in a grocery store queue, I encountered a group of European nuns and felt as a co-religionist, sort of I had to connect with them. I tried scraps of every romance language I could muster and got baffled looks in return. Finally, I resorted to the only tongue we had in common. "Shabbat shalom," I uttered. Have a good weekend, in Hebrew.
The Middle East rubbed off on me in other ways. Eventually, I began to feel some of that gravity I'd long ago observed pressing down on me. But, lucky to have experienced calamitous misfortune only as an observer, I suspect the heaviness won't settle on me. Entering the airport terminal upon arrival in New York, I suddenly performed a feat I'd never managed before. I had kicked my heels in the air before I even knew what I was doing.