Thursday, Dec. 09, 2010


Southern food, with the omnipresent pig at its core, has somehow become one of the most vital creative forces in American gastronomy, with a whole generation of great Southern chefs recreating American food from the trotters up. Even chefs and butchers who don't come from the South now want to grab a hacksaw and go to town on a whole hog, serving even the most urbane grandees jowls, scrapple and (best of all) bacon. The Grand Lama of lardcore? South Carolina's Sean Brock, whose new restaurant Husk might just be the Next Great American Restaurant.