Small farm and organic: in the food business, those magic words open every door. A chef who couldn't use them would be in the same position as a puppy store that couldn't say adorable or a men's magazine that wasn't allowed to use hot. They're universal signifiers, culinary shibboleths that automatically and universally suggest quality to consumers. And generally, that's a fair impression. But sometimes Goliath in the form of plain, proletariat, grocery-store food can win. There are numerous cases infrequent, indeed, but still worth mentioning in which the supermarket or at least the nonorganic version is better than the one brought to you via 1989 Nissan pickup driven by that Wavy Gravy look-alike from Rutabaga County. To see for ourselves, we asked eight food experts to try two versions of a standard product in their field of special knowledge. While the organic or small-farm product won more often than not, there were a few surprises.