It used to be a big deal if a restaurant made its own salami. A cutting board would be brought to the table, with some "house cured" salami. Awesome! But now the great charcuterie arms race has begun, and the old way isn't good enough anymore. Guinea-hen rillettes, Ossabaw chorizo, elaborate terrines, cured lardo, even immense country hams of the kind that used to be procurable only from remote country smokehouses now seem to be on the table at every wannabistro. And again, I say, Awesome!
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