Little marks the historic confluence of the mighty Indus and the Kabul River just south of Pakistan's provincial capital of Peshawar save a few fishermen plying the swirling blue and gray waters. But it is there among the rattletrap shacks crowding the banks between the river and the Grand Trunk Road that one of the great dining experiences of the region is found: fresh-caught fish dredged in chickpea flour and spices, deep fried to a rich golden hue. Lean back on the rope benches and cushions scattered among the reeds and feast with your fingers on the steaming, succulent meat. Locals clean their messy fingers on the fresh-baked flatbread served alongside, but it is almost a pity. Better to defy custom and lick the remaining spices and juices off yourself, and save the river for a final wash.
By Aryn Baker