The Greatest Shows on Earth

Robert Nickelsberg/Liaison for TIME.

The pilgrims flock to a city of tents on the sandy banks of the two rivers -- afar cry from the luxury accommodation reserved for visiting VIPs, includingWestern pop and film stars. The dusty tents cover the rivers' flood plainfarther than the eye can see; the crowds put enormous pressure on the city'smakeshift public utilities.

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