Weekend Entertainment Guide

MUSIC . . . THE ROAD TO ENSENADA: Both Julia Roberts and Lyle Lovett remain tantalizingly mum about their breakup. But Lovett, a caustic songwriter, could be expected to have the last words. Here they are, in 12 choice cuts of 'The Road to Ensenada' (MCA). Listen for the testimony and you may be persuaded that the whole marriage was fieldwork, research under fire for an album of wily recrimination. As with any Lovett collection, this one has its share of the funky-flaky. The opener, '(You Can Have My Girl but) Don1t Touch My Hat,' finds the Texan in a possessive frenzy about his "John B. Stetson." 'Promises,' meanwhile, is naked Lyle, skin flayed, soul raw with grief that could be whispered from a jail cell or an unquiet grave. The melody is plain, the guitar accompaniment plaintive: the song enshrouds you in its desperate beauty. "The primal emotions on 'The Road to Ensenada' -->